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"Fragrance
is like magic, a whiff of mystery that stays with you forever"
Famous Quotes
'A
perfume must be more mysterious than a copy of something in nature. When a
man sees a woman, he shouldn't think of a rose; he should think of that
woman..'
Perfume Jean Paul Guerlain on the philosophy of his grandfather Jacques
Guerlain
'Perfume
puts the finishing touch to elegance - a detail that subtly underscores
the look, an invisible extra that completes a woman's personality. Without
it there is something missing'
Gianni Versace
'A
fragrance is like a dress, an expression of personality. It can be both
erotic or powerful, or both, but it always combines femininity and
sensuality"
Gianfranco Ferre, Designer
Fragrance Facts
All fragrance is a mix of alcohol and water with a
quantity of pure perfume essence added. The different editions relate to
the quantity of the pure perfume they contain. For example, the
parfum
typically contains 15% to 30% of pure perfume essence and
eau de parfum
will contain 8% to 15% but the
eau de toilette will contain only 4% to 8%.
Splash colognes and eau de colognes can contain anything from 1% to 5%.
Eau de
Toilette (EDT) is the most widely available version of perfume. It
is most commonly available as a spray for ease of application, and as it
is so light in its' fragrance it can be re-applied throughout the day as a
top-up to replenish your fragrance.
Eau de
Parfum (EDP) makes a good double-act with EDT, start the day with the EDP
and replenish it with the EDT as and when you wish
after it has been worn for a while.
When
to wear : Parfum - wear in small quantities, either at the begining of the
day, or for a fuller affect in the evening. Strong enough to last the day. Eau
de Parfum
- wear
throughout the day in small amounts. Eau
de Toilette -
wear
throughout the day.
Fragrances are
comprised of many different scents, these scents are called "notes." The
unique balance in the mixture of these notes is what gives a fragrance its
distinct personality.
Top notes : are very light and last
just a few minutes (10-15 minutes).
Middle notes : become apparent in about 15 minutes
after application, these can last up to an hour
or more.
Bottom notes : are the heavier ingredients, these last the longest, usually for several hours.
Most Commonly Asked Questions
How do I find my
perfect perfume?
All perfume
smells different on different people so to be sure that a perfume is right
for you just try it! You should go to perfumeries and use a tester or
obtain a sample preferably in the eau de toilette edition or other lower
concentration editions. You should also live with the fragrance for a
while to be sure because it will smell different at different times of the
day and different occasions as well.
Why did a perfume I
bought smell different when I was in the shop?
The
atmosphere of most department stores and the other common places for
buying fragrance are full of smells by definition so everything smells a
bit different. But seriously, all perfume is affected by the environment
in which it is experienced. This environment is made up of temperature,
humidity and background smells. More importantly than this is the fact
that each perfume has a different evaporation rate so the 'top note' that
you smell in the store may be different from the 'middle note' that you
experience later at home. So your best bet is to try just one fragrance
and wear it for the rest of the day.
How long should a
single application last?
That
depends. Fragrances are made up of volatile ingredients which evaporate
over time. As a fragrance is worn it goes through 3 distinct phases. The
first of these is the top note and is made up of those ingredients that
evaporate first because they are highly-volatile. Then comes the middle
note (sometimes called the body or heart of the fragrance) which is made
up of those ingredients that are not so volatile. Finally, you guessed it,
you get the base or lower notes which are the foundation of the fragrance.
These are the least volatile ingredients and hence the ones that last the
longest. Good quality perfume will smell very similar through all of these
stages but in all cases the length of time it takes to go through these
depends on the ingredients.
Sometimes my perfume
is too strong, can I do anything about this?
Well you
could just put less on or buy a lower purity edition of the fragrance, an
eau de toilette or splash if it is available. Alternatively, if you are
feeling a little more adventurous, you could add an alcohol and water mix
(about 10% distilled water to 90% alcohol). You might do this and put the
resulting weaker fragrance in an atomiser to take with you in a handbag to
refresh your fragrance throughout the day. This will not affect the smell
at all, just dilute the perfume and hence the strength of it.
Should I try just one
fragrance at a time?
If you are
in a department store there will already be many different fragrances in
the air and discerning any one without being affected by another will be
difficult. You can also try more fragrances that are very different in one
go than you can fragrances that are similar. For example, you could try
two or three fresh fragrances and then find your ability to differentiate
is impaired. But if you try a fresh fragrance or two and then move to
oriental or floral you will still be able to judge them.
You will
also find that heavier fragrances are more difficult to try as they tend
to be stronger - so always start with light ones. And if you are testing
them on your skin, put them as far apart as you can. Best to try a
different one on each visit to the store!
Does perfume smell
different on different people?
Yes it
does. This is because different people have different skin conditions,
body temperatures and even diets which can affect the way a fragrance
might smell. Everyone has their own individual smell and this is mixed
with the smell of the fragrance to make up the smell so you should really
always try fragrance on your own skin to be sure (not on a paper tester).
Unfortunately, this also means that if you smell a great perfume on
someone else you might find it doesn't smell the same on you!
How should I wear
perfume?
To answer
this, one has to explain how fragrance works; all perfume contains a
volatile liquid which evaporates on the skin during the course of its use.
This process is facilitated by the heat of the body and the body is
warmest where there is good blood circulation closest to the surface of
the skin. Therefore, the warmer the skin that you dab the fragrance on the
more effective this evaporation will be. That is the reason that the most
popular locations are behind the ear, on the wrist and at the bend of your
arm.
You can
also spray your perfume in freshly washed hair but be careful that your
shampoo or conditioner does not have too strong a fragrance itself or you
might affect the harmony of the perfume. You could also spray it on
clothes near the skin as well which sometimes improves the life of a
single application. This works best on natural fibers but be careful if
you like to wear different fragrances with the same coat as they may
clash.
It's thought to help
if you spray your fragrance on damp skin. This can be done after bathing
or showering. Apply perfume to pulse points such as: neck, wrist, navel,
ankles, behind your ears, back of the knees and inside your elbow. A light
spray on the hair can last all day.
Could I
wear more than one fragrance at once?
Most
perfumers will tell you that this is the ultimate perfume sin because
perfumers spend a lot of time developing fragrances in order to achieve a
balance and harmony. But I feel that a fragrance is designed to make you
feel great and confident so you should wear which ever fragrance you like
with what ever you like and feel most comfortable with. Don't forget that
perfumes are only careful mixtures of various ingredients so why should
you not try a bit of mixing yourself.
Is it possible to wear
too much?
As a rule
the daytime fragrances are lighter and more and better suited to wear for
long periods of time without being overbearing. The evening fragrances are
for just that, evening and special occasions because they tend to be
heavier, stronger and more intoxicating. In addition to these categories
you should also pick the edition carefully as well. If you are going to
wear it all day then try the EDT edition and if it is for special evening
wear you could use the parfum. Note also that the longer lasting 'base'
notes will accumulate if you re-apply the same.
Why can't I smell my
own perfume after a while?
You can
become accustomed to a smell and your brain filters it out as a background
smell so that it is better able to discern new smells. This way you might
think your fragrance has worn off yet someone else may find it quite
strong still.
Can my perfume affect
my mood?
We wear a
special fragrance on special occasions and every time we smell it our mood
is affected dramatically. We associate it with happiness, friends and
laughter and it puts us in that frame of mind. This is one of the most
important affects of fragrance. So the answer is yes a perfume can
definitely affect the mood of anyone who smells it.
Do use fragrance
throughout every day; it will increase your feelings of well being...add a
special degree of graciousness to daily living and makes life for you and
those around you infinitely more pleasurable and enjoyable.
Blends of floral and
citrus-based fragrances are recommended for casual and daywear. Spicy,
woody or warm amber-based fragrances are traditionally favorites for
evening and special occasions.
Should I use a
fragrance which matches my partners?
There are a
few fragrance on the market that can be bought in pairs e.g. Armani's He
and She, but you shouldn't worry overly about this. Masculine fragrances
and feminine fragrances have been moving closer together in terms of the
notes they contain whilst there are still some very definite male and
female concept areas. You could even try swapping fragrance if you like.
Why is most perfume
expensive?
You need
read only a little about the ingredients of fragrances to see that some of
the methods for collecting them is long and labour intensive which means
expensive. In addition to this there are the modern economies of the
industry. Firstly, you cannot buy cheaper bulk packs of perfume because it
would go off before a single wearer manages to use it all. Secondly the
modern designer invests enormous amounts of time and money creating and
maintaining sophisticated aspirational brands that people want to buy into
through advertising and sponsorships. These brand creation and upkeep
costs need to be recouped.
Are some perfumes
better than others?
There is a
technical answer to this which is that a fragrance should be
dermatologically safe and evaporate from the skin evenly and harmoniously
throughout its stages, not loosing its essential notes throughout. It
should also have 'tenacity' which means it lasts well on the wearer and
does not need continuous reapplication. This is achieved through careful
use of fixatives or heavy and less volatile notes which maintain the broad
smell throughout its use.
The real
answer to this question is that a good fragrance is a fragrance that makes
you feel good about yourself. It's about the individual and expression.
Does perfume go off?
How can I tell?
Yes. New
unopened fragrance normally last well (at least a year or more if kept
properly) but opened perfume will eventually go off as it is based on a
volatile liquid that will evaporate. You can tell if it has gone off by
checking to see if it has darkened significantly or thickened and you get
a strange sour smell on opening the bottle. To prevent this happening you
should always leave your perfume with the lid on tightly and not placed in
direct sunlight or near a heat source. Unfortunately there is little you
can do with it once it has gone off as trying to dilute it will not return
it to its former glory.
How should I keep my
perfume?
The best
way to keep fragrance is at room temperature or slightly cooler (but not
too cool) in the dark. Unopened the perfume will keep for more than a year
or so but once opened it will eventually go off. This takes about 6 months
depending on how the perfume is kept.
Keep all fragrance in
a cool, dry area and away from windows as sunlight or extremes in
temperature can unbalance the various ingredients of the perfume and
change its scent.
What should I choose
as a gift for someone?
There are
many ways of selecting appropriate fragrances as gifts but usually you can
tell a lot about the fragrance from its name and the advertising, images
and emotions it portrays. For example, for a more mature recipient
it is easier to buy lighter and more casual fragrances as gifts because
they are more widely accepted whereas the heavier fragrances for more
evening wear are more personal. If you want to play it safe you should
choose one of the long time classics. Good luck and don't forget that a
perfume or aftershave always makes a wonderfully and personal gift,
whatever it is.
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